Why some patterns won't work on both!
On a roper cinch, the cords are narrower at the buckles and flare wider toward the center, so they aren’t actually a parallel surface to work with detail wise. When we add detail work, the 2 ply woven in between the 8 ply cords pushes the cords apart a bit. Since we are working with a (basically rectangular) shape on a straight cinch, we can build detail work evenly/symmetrically (visualize coloring block patterns on graph paper).
On a roper cinch, we are basically building detail shapes on two triangles. As we continue to add detail work that pushes the cords apart, since they are already traveling at an angle (NOT parallel!), if we add too much as it travels toward the buckle (as the cords narrow), it will affect how the cords lie, and in turn how it wears on the horse. That is why most of our roper cinch detail work is put in the center of the cinch, and there is typically very little (if any) up by the buckles.
When we are deciding what patterns we can and can’t do, we basically look at the “working area” where we can add two-ply that won’t affect how the cords will lay. If the detail work we do could possibly affect how the cords sit, we won’t do it- simple as that. We want the detail work to sit flat, even, and allow the 8 ply cords to travel correctly.
Our job to make you beautiful gear that is, above ALL, comfortable for your horse. Sometimes, unfortunately, we do need to say “no” to certain patterns if we think function will be affected!
Hopefully, this helps clarify a few things for everyone! We will always do our best to get as close as we can to achieve the look that you are after, but also know that we won’t compromise overall function/comfort to the horse either! We want your gear to last a long time and allow your horse to perform well.
